{"id":2747,"date":"2019-09-28T12:10:28","date_gmt":"2019-09-28T10:10:28","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/?p=2747"},"modified":"2019-09-27T23:11:08","modified_gmt":"2019-09-27T21:11:08","slug":"76-traversee-bulgare","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/index.php\/2019\/09\/28\/76-traversee-bulgare\/","title":{"rendered":"76. Travers\u00e9e bulgare"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>Notre parcours en Bulgarie a commenc\u00e9 \u00e0 Rouss\u00e9 (Ruse), juste \u00e0 la fronti\u00e8re avec la Roumanie. Nous sommes descendus vers le Sud Ouest jusqu&#8217;\u00e0 Sofia, puis avons suivi les montagnes Rhodopes vers l&#8217;Est jusqu&#8217;\u00e0 Tsarevo sur la c\u00f4te de la mer noire, derni\u00e8re \u00e9tape avant de passer en Turquie. Nous avons vraiment aim\u00e9 ces routes de petite montagne, pleines de virages et de beaux points de vue, et g\u00e9n\u00e9ralement en bon \u00e9tat (sauf pour la route 99 de Tsarevo \u00e0 la fronti\u00e8re turque, belle mais vraiment mauvaise &#8230;). Attention cependant aux chiens errants, il y en a partout, parfois aussi b\u00eates que les rennes de Finlande. Il y a aussi des chiens  gardiens de troupeaux charg\u00e9s de repousser les &#8230; loups ! Ceux-l\u00e0 sont en g\u00e9n\u00e9ral tr\u00e8s gros et agressifs, on ne peut donc pas s&#8217;arr\u00eater n&#8217;importe o\u00f9 pour faire une photo !<br>Belle balade donc, \u00e0 faire sans contrainte pour pouvoir s&#8217;arr\u00eater et aller \u00e0 la rencontre des Bulgares qui sont tr\u00e8s attachants.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1000\" height=\"640\" src=\"http:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Rhodopes-15.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2755\" srcset=\"https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Rhodopes-15.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Rhodopes-15-300x192.jpg 300w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Rhodopes-15-768x492.jpg 768w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Rhodopes-15-600x384.jpg 600w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Rhodopes-15-800x512.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><figcaption>Ma parole, on dirait un Tiger 1200 fran\u00e7ais !<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1000\" height=\"558\" src=\"http:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Montagnes-Rhodopes-4.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2750\" srcset=\"https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Montagnes-Rhodopes-4.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Montagnes-Rhodopes-4-300x167.jpg 300w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Montagnes-Rhodopes-4-768x429.jpg 768w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Montagnes-Rhodopes-4-600x335.jpg 600w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Montagnes-Rhodopes-4-800x446.jpg 800w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Montagnes-Rhodopes-4-247x139.jpg 247w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><figcaption>Paysage des Rhodopes en fin de journ\u00e9e<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1000\" height=\"714\" src=\"http:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Rhodopes-5.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2751\" srcset=\"https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Rhodopes-5.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Rhodopes-5-300x214.jpg 300w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Rhodopes-5-768x548.jpg 768w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Rhodopes-5-600x428.jpg 600w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Rhodopes-5-800x571.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><figcaption>C&#8217;est la saison de la r\u00e9colte des pommes de terre, qui se fait en famille. Certains utilisent encore le cheval pour tirer la charrue. Notez bien le sourire et le geste, nous avons vu cela tout au long de notre travers\u00e9e<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1000\" height=\"607\" src=\"http:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Rhodopes-7.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2752\" srcset=\"https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Rhodopes-7.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Rhodopes-7-300x182.jpg 300w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Rhodopes-7-768x466.jpg 768w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Rhodopes-7-600x364.jpg 600w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Rhodopes-7-800x486.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><figcaption>Encore une charrette et des chevaux. Et toujours le sourire !<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1000\" height=\"568\" src=\"http:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Rhodopes-9.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2753\" srcset=\"https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Rhodopes-9.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Rhodopes-9-300x170.jpg 300w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Rhodopes-9-768x436.jpg 768w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Rhodopes-9-600x341.jpg 600w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Rhodopes-9-800x454.jpg 800w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Rhodopes-9-247x139.jpg 247w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Rhodopes-9-278x157.jpg 278w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Rhodopes-9-178x101.jpg 178w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><figcaption>L&#8217;autre danger des routes bulgares, ce sont les vaches. Heureusement, elles sont moins fantasques que les rennes. Mais pas question d&#8217;arsouiller en moto, on en trouve souvent en plein virage !<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1000\" height=\"652\" src=\"http:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Rhodopes-12.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2754\" srcset=\"https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Rhodopes-12.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Rhodopes-12-300x196.jpg 300w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Rhodopes-12-768x501.jpg 768w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Rhodopes-12-600x391.jpg 600w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Rhodopes-12-800x522.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><figcaption>Pont bulgare. Pas \u00e9pais, mais \u00e7a tient, la preuve !<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1000\" height=\"611\" src=\"http:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Rhodopes-32.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2756\" srcset=\"https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Rhodopes-32.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Rhodopes-32-300x183.jpg 300w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Rhodopes-32-768x469.jpg 768w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Rhodopes-32-600x367.jpg 600w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Rhodopes-32-800x489.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><figcaption>Shiroka Laka, tr\u00e8s beau village \u00e0 flanc de montagne, avec de belles maisons traditionnelles en pierre. Mais tr\u00e8s touristique aussi. Un peu plus \u00e0 l&#8217;Est, on arrive \u00e0 Pamporovo, station de ski bulgare<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1000\" height=\"556\" src=\"http:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Rhodopes-40.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2757\" srcset=\"https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Rhodopes-40.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Rhodopes-40-300x167.jpg 300w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Rhodopes-40-768x427.jpg 768w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Rhodopes-40-600x334.jpg 600w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Rhodopes-40-800x445.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><figcaption>Pont suspendu en apparence robuste, mais aux planches bien pourries. Nous l&#8217;avons quand m\u00eame travers\u00e9 pour la photo !<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1000\" height=\"584\" src=\"http:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Sud-Bulgarie-5.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2758\" srcset=\"https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Sud-Bulgarie-5.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Sud-Bulgarie-5-300x175.jpg 300w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Sud-Bulgarie-5-768x449.jpg 768w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Sud-Bulgarie-5-600x350.jpg 600w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Sud-Bulgarie-5-800x467.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><figcaption>Il semble que les bulgares raffolent de ces personnages en terre cuite \u00e0 mettre sur sa pelouse ou son balcon. Nous en avons vu partout. Ici, c&#8217;est une toute petite partie de l&#8217;exposition d&#8217;un artisan le long de la route, il y avait aussi toutes sortes d&#8217;animaux, Blanche neige et les quatre-vingt-dix-sept nains, et j&#8217;en passe. Et le chien sur la voiture est sans danger, il est aussi en terre cuite<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1000\" height=\"651\" src=\"http:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Tsarevo-7.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2759\" srcset=\"https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Tsarevo-7.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Tsarevo-7-300x195.jpg 300w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Tsarevo-7-768x500.jpg 768w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Tsarevo-7-600x391.jpg 600w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Tsarevo-7-800x521.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><figcaption>Nous arrivons finalement sur la c\u00f4te de la mer noire, dans la ville baln\u00e9aire de Tsarevo, quasi d\u00e9serte en cette fin de saison<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-gallery columns-2 is-cropped wp-block-gallery-1 is-layout-flex wp-block-gallery-is-layout-flex\"><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1000\" height=\"914\" src=\"http:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Tsarevo-5.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"2760\" data-link=\"http:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/?attachment_id=2760\" class=\"wp-image-2760\" srcset=\"https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Tsarevo-5.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Tsarevo-5-300x274.jpg 300w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Tsarevo-5-768x702.jpg 768w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Tsarevo-5-600x548.jpg 600w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Tsarevo-5-800x731.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><figcaption>Mais l&#8217;eau y est tr\u00e8s bonne<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><li class=\"blocks-gallery-item\"><figure><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1000\" height=\"957\" src=\"http:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Tsarevo-6.jpg\" alt=\"\" data-id=\"2761\" data-link=\"http:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/?attachment_id=2761\" class=\"wp-image-2761\" srcset=\"https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Tsarevo-6.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Tsarevo-6-300x287.jpg 300w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Tsarevo-6-768x735.jpg 768w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Tsarevo-6-600x574.jpg 600w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Tsarevo-6-800x766.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><figcaption>Et la baignade est surveill\u00e9e par Pamela (euh, plut\u00f4t Pomelo !)<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1000\" height=\"598\" src=\"http:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Tsarevo-8.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2762\" srcset=\"https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Tsarevo-8.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Tsarevo-8-300x179.jpg 300w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Tsarevo-8-768x459.jpg 768w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Tsarevo-8-600x359.jpg 600w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Tsarevo-8-800x478.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><figcaption>Et en cas de probl\u00e8me, il y a une clinique \u00e0 proximit\u00e9<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"1000\" height=\"710\" src=\"http:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Tsarevo-17.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-2764\" srcset=\"https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Tsarevo-17.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Tsarevo-17-300x213.jpg 300w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Tsarevo-17-768x545.jpg 768w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Tsarevo-17-600x426.jpg 600w, https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/Tsarevo-17-800x568.jpg 800w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><figcaption>Aller, une derni\u00e8re image de Bulgarie, juste pour le plaisir<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Alors, la Bulgarie, \u00e7a vous tente ? Nous en tout cas, \u00e7a nous a plu. On y circule tr\u00e8s facilement, les h\u00e9bergements sont nombreux, et la vie n&#8217;est vraiment pas ch\u00e8re. Peu de bulgares parlent anglais, mais avec un bon smartphone et un peu de patience, on y arrive tr\u00e8s bien, et \u00e7a peut m\u00eame \u00eatre amusant. Attention aux paiements, la carte bleue n&#8217;est pas souvent accept\u00e9e dans les campagnes, et les distributeurs ne sont pas si nombreux (et parfois en panne, on en sait quelque chose &#8230;)<br>Voil\u00e0, cette promenade en Bulgarie se termine, et nous allons attaquer une nouvelle grosse \u00e9tape de ce voyage: la Turquie. Qu&#8217;allons-nous y trouver ? Comment allons-nous le vivre ? A suivre dans nos prochains articles<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Notre parcours en Bulgarie a commenc\u00e9 \u00e0 Rouss\u00e9 (Ruse), juste \u00e0 la fronti\u00e8re avec la Roumanie. Nous sommes descendus vers le Sud Ouest jusqu&#8217;\u00e0 Sofia, puis avons suivi les montagnes Rhodopes vers l&#8217;Est jusqu&#8217;\u00e0 Tsarevo sur la c\u00f4te de la mer noire, derni\u00e8re \u00e9tape avant de passer en Turquie. Nous avons vraiment aim\u00e9 ces routes [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":2748,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[87],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2747","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-bulgarie"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2747","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=2747"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2747\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/2748"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2747"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=2747"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/joyvmoto.com\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=2747"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}